The guy claimed it worked. It didn’t, but it was an interesting piece of garage art for awhile, till I sold it because I needed the space more than the eye candy, but the best part? I paid 30 bucks for the scope, an old Coats Tireman tire changer, which I still have but don’t use, and a home-made transmission jack that weighed as much as a dead horse. Same story, “worked when we used it last about 20 years ago”. But I opened up the back and found the factory manual stuffed inside, and with just a few bad electrical connections fixed, I got it working. I hadn’t heard of a pulse amplifier. A couple of years ago, I bought this Sun distributor tester from a local hot rodder who used to teach auto shop and welding at the local junior college. I paid bucks for it, and he threw in a newer bottom cabinet which wasn’t so-called correct for the dist machine, but nevertheless, was a later Sun cabinet, and sweetened the deal. With some clean up and a little repair to the broken caster mounts, the cabinet worked out good, too.
Ford Racing DUI
The following instructions are for creating a MegaSquirt to Relay Board cable. It is for those who are creating their own harness. With both boxes mounted, measure the distance between them from DB connector to DB connector – this will be the length that you will cut the individual wires. If you are not using a Relay Board, allow enough length in each of your wires to reach the target component.
It is often better to be too long and trim afterwards, than to be too short and have to splice additional lengths on. For a Relay Board cable, you can move both heat shrink pieces to the center of the wire length, and then twisting the center of the wire with a few twists to hold the heat shrink in place, so that it does not fall off the wire or run down while soldering the connection.
Sep 09, · I only have two plugs to hook up to the new hei unit. do i scrap the green and the two wires through the loom that connect to the coil and connect the orange and purple or do i scrap the orange and purple and just connect the two from the coil to the new distributor.
This system uses the same basic electrical troubleshooting procedures as the coil in cap system, so use that page as a reference and guide for troubleshooting and repair. The difference is that the coil is mounted remotely and there is some slight difference in identifying the connections and terminals. Use a DVOM for testing, calibrate meter scale some do automatically to read zero when the leads are touching each other.
Do this before testing coil to insure greatest accuracy. If meter will not calibrate to read less than 0. With ohmmeter set on highest scale, touch one probe to the 12V power pin and the other probe to the coil case. The reading should not be anything less than infinity. Any reading is a cause to reject the coil.
Vintage Sun Tune Up, Testers, Scopes, Analyzer, Distributor Thread
I have some spare time, so decided to do a write up of how I do it. I will come back at a later date and add some photos to help. I also ask readers to give me feed back on any area that doesn’t make sense so I can elaborate or revise my wording. Let me know of an easier or alternate method, and I will include it.
Turn the crankshaft to Top Dead Center, so that the timing mark on the crank pulley is at the TDC or 0 mark on the timing reference. Since the crankshaft turns at twice the speed of the camshaft, not only do you need to line up the timing marks, but you have to make sure the 1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke.
HEI Conversions. Finding an HEI Distributor. There are a couple of choices here, new or used. In addition, here are a few things to note: ’75 to ’79 (’75 to ’85 Canadian) used 4-pin modules.
If you are using this on a street application I recommend that you use a conventional ignition with mechanical and vacuum advance. Timing control is an advanced tuning tool that needs to be tuned manually in the handheld. If you are a person that likes to custom curve a distributor or likes messing with settings this could be a fun option.
You may be let down however if you just hook it up and not tune it past its default settings. Michael Warburton October 13, at 2: Going to run a pro billet msd distributor.
HEI Conversion Wiring Instructions
I would like to ask other customers a question about this Product. Product Related Question Q: Can I just drop this in my 4 bolt main , hook up 12 volts , set the timing , hook up the vacuum and I’m finished. Or will there be other things that I will need to deal with. It’s in a 49 Chevy truck. This is a single wire distributor so yes is the answer to your question, this should fit all sbc and bbc I put one in a bb hooked up 1 wire that ran from 12v ign, there is another spot for a wire which would run to your tach if you have one or choose to run one, I recommend buying the pigtail that clips right into the distributor it’s easier than a wire connector ADAM from WA answered on August 25, A:
Answer With new plugs and wires numbered, battery removed or both cables disconnected, install HEI with printed guide in front of you, insuring each step is read 3 times, double-checked, before.
For more info go here. As you may or may not know, the stock internal-coil distributor on the MX-3 is very failure prone, this is almost always caused by a faulty ignition module. How Do I know my ignition module is bad? Well for one, your car will be more reliable assuming you don’t do a halfassed job of wiring it all. You won’t have to worry about your car randomly breaking down on you. You will also notice the starting improve if you’ve had problems in the past where you have to crank it times before it starts on a cold morning.
I personally feel a more consistent power curve when flooring it in 2nd or 3rd gear, my engine doesn’t stutter like it used to.
GM HEI Distributor To Tachometer Connector
A perfect case in point is our dyno test mule engine. We recently used it to test different rocker arm setups and destroyed two of the six rocker sets we tested. The Mallory distributor had served its duty well on previous dyno tests, but this time we had a wiring mishap while hooking the engine up to the dyno.
Distributor advance. It doesn’t matter what kind of ignition you have, if the advance curve is not set properly it won’t make any power. Next you should hook up a tach and timing light and see what your timing is set at. Simply watch the timing marks with the light. The reading at idle is your initial advance. Rev the motor up until the.
Originally Posted by PancakesandSausage First of all, thank you so much for the detailed responses. I’ve been coming to this site for a while and have learned a great deal, I really appreciate everyones’ kindness. There are 2 smaller posts on the starter. The “S” post closest to the engine has the purple wire coming from the harness. Could it be that I totally botched the wires? I will check this when I get home.
How do you wire an ignition coil to a distributor?
Are there any changes that I need to make in my wiring and connections? The points distributor used a resistance to lower the voltage to the points in the run position to prevent wear on the points. This was done with either an external ballast resistor or a resistance wire in the ignition circuit depending on the year of the car. When converting to an HEI there are three issues which must be addressed.
The first concerns the resistance in the run circuit. The second concerns the gauge of wire feeding the HEI distributor.
A second connection is also under the coil cover for electronic tach hook-up. This is a NEW complete distributor, not a second or blem! HEI Ignition Performance Distributor.
Today, many musclecar enthusiasts have abandoned points and upgraded to some form of electronic ignition, and still many more would like to, with the few exceptions being those competing with point show-cars. And after all, why not convert? The factory has supplied us and ultimately, the salvage yards with a huge number of electronic ignition systems, not to mention what is available commercially.
The factory HEI, which is what will be discussed, offers: Any performance-seeker can order an HEI from a number of aftermarket sources, and it will do the same thing as a properly-prepared factory unit from the salvage yard, except it will eat a hole in the owner’s wallet. HEI’s do have a part stamped on the base, but without a number crunching book it will not directly reveal the year or anything else about the unit.
In other words, on some cars, there will be 2 wires for spark juice, one is ‘hot’ in the ignition switch “crank” position, the other is ‘hot’ in the ignition switch “run” position. This was common in the pre cars, which used an inline ballast resistor with an external voltage regulator. Starting in , GM introduced another engine-compartment clean-up idea, which was the internally regulated alternator. These were nice, and also eliminated the bulky external regulator.
This is significant, because these cars usually did not use an inline ballast resistor, but instead used a resistance wire. Step 2 Now, determine which type of wiring harness is in your car. Verify this with a test light, one ‘hot’ wire for the ignition switch’s ‘crank’ and ‘run’ position should be found.
Hot rodding the HEI distributor
Powering them through the original wiring will mean that the Ballast Resistance will still be present. If the Ballast Resistance is kept in place, the Engine will misfire at higher RPM because the Coil’s increased current demand will cause an increase in voltage drop across the Ballast Resistance. The Coil will then see reduced voltage and its output will be reduced. The Starter Tap is where the thick black Wire is bolted. Photo by The Red Baron.
How to Wire a Kill Switch Between the Hei Distributor. In the case of a General Motors HEI ignition, a kill switch can easily be introduced into the power wire to the ignition coil. 1. Park the vehicle on a level, paved surface and set the parking brake. Make sure the ignition is turned off. 2.
The HEI distributor has no points- it uses built-in electronics to determine when to fire the sparkplugs. It also incorporates the coil inside the top of the distributor cap. It is larger than a regular distributor and won’t fit certain applications like tripower carburator setups. There is a second wire used for an electronic tach pulse. The case provides the path to chassis ground through the cam gear and the distributor hold down bolt. Here’s a desciption of the wires: Ignition on wire connect to the ignition switch ON position use 14 ga wire See red wire and brown connector at the distributor in the previous picture Tach line connect to an electronic tach See black wire connected using a white connector to distributor in the previous picture use 18 ga wire The HEI distributor is pretty damn simple.
I can’t think of too much else to add to it. Plug it in, hook up one wire to the ignition switch ON position and you’re done! Got to like that! There are smaller versions of the HEI distributor that have an external ignition coil.
Spark It Up: How to Convert a Ford or Mopar Distributor to GM HEI
Remove the distributor cap, right valve cover and the 4 cyl rocker arms and pedestal. Set up a dial gauge on the 4 intake push rod. Rotate the engine to TDC 1 cylinder. If the dial reads thousands, your valve timing is right.
Chevy V8 HEI Performance Distributor Fits Small and Big Block Chevrolet 1 Wire Hook Up.
Thus polarity of the reluctor signal is critical to proper function. The falling edge of this square wave is used as the trigger event which becomes the rising edge when the optoisolator inverts the signal. HEI does not use the reluctor for dwell control, this is accomplished in the module. Dwell needs to be independent of RPM. Variable reluctor output is RPM dependent with regard to both its width and amplitude of its output.
The only thing constant with a variable reluctor output is the location of the zero crossing point with respect to the passing tooth. Be sure to get the variable reluctor pick-up wires connected properly. Reversing the variable reluctor sensor wires and thus the polarity of the sensor causes the leading voltage to go negative first and the electronics ignores the positive going transition. Thus trigger signal, if ever recognized, is the falling edge of the voltage as the end of the tooth passes.
The idea was to explain in detail the steps it takes to properly rebuild a 6 Cylinder Engine. From start to finish, this article goes through every aspect of a rebuild, from tear-down, to the engine shops work, to rebuilding each subsystem, right through to engine adjustment and run-up. This article was completed in the Summer of with really great results.
Jan 08, · i will have one but you know how on the HEI distributor theres 2 wires that need to be connected, says on the cap is the 12v and tach, i cant seem to find the research on where i need to hook it ideas on where i connect it.
Label or mark the location of your spark plug wires on the distributor cap for fast, easy reference. When you have installed your HEI distributor, its best to widen the plug gap as well. You should run a new power wire that is getting a full 12 volts. If you measure the juice at idle on that wire, you will find it to be only around 9 volts. The car will run and operate using this wire under normal driving conditions, but the power loss will be noticeable at full throttle.
Although not likely to be considered the greatest manager of spark, at the time there was no other option. The HEI, which stands for High Energy Ignition, is a breaker-less, transistor- controlled, inductive discharge system. It operates in a similar fashion to the conventional points type ignition, but relies solely on a series of electronic signals to turn on and off the primary current rather than the mechanical opening and closing of points.
This task is routinely carried out by the switching transistor- located inside the ignition module.